所有男人應該知道的27條穿西裝淺規則
27 Unspoken Suit Rules Every Man Should Know
作者: Peggy Wang / BuzzFedd Staff
翻譯:Mr. Woodson
若不懂得西裝的基本規則,你不能指望你看起來帥氣和紳士.
You can't expect to look all dapper and gentlemanly without knowing Suiting 101.
1. 領帶的寬度應該和西裝翻領的寬度相匹配.
1. The width of the tie should match the width of the lapel.
這是關於協調.
It's all about BALANCE.
2. 一般情况下，細的翻領顯得較為現代. 而寬版的翻領則較為經典, "廣告狂人*"的那種風格
2. In general, thin lapels are more modern. Wide lapels are more old-school, Mad Men* style.
因此依照你的外型做選擇吧.
So choose your look accordingly.
*全美的電視影集《廣告狂人》Mad Men
3. 口袋胸巾可讓你更加的優雅，但確定它的花紋及布料都要和領帶不同.
3. A pocket square adds an extra level of polish, but make sure it doesn't match your tie in either pattern or fabric choice.
在你走向過於保守之前，記得口袋胸巾是你可以完全自由發揮的，並可以加一點點花俏到你的西裝的地方.
Before you go totally conservative, remember that the pocket square is where you get the most freedom and the one place you get to add a little pizzazz to your suit.
4. 當你選購成衣西裝時，確認就是肩膀是否合身
4. When buying an off-the-rack suit, the number one thing to check is how the shoulders fit.
嘖嘖，John McCain*. 墊肩應該與肩膀對齊. 肩膀部位的修改對裁縫師來說最為困難的，所以記得墊肩不要凸出來或翹起來
Tsk, tsk, John McCain*. Shoulder pads should end at the shoulders. The shoulders are the hardest to tailor, so make sure they don't stick out or stick up.
*美國聯邦參議員John McCain
5. 你的外套的翻領和襯衫領子之間的空隙可以象徵一件不合身的外套。
5. A collar gap between your jacket's lapels and your shirt's collar can signify an ill-fitting jacket.
這很複雜的。了解更多關於它在這裡。
It's complicated. Read more about it here.
6. 選擇碳黑色或灰色的西裝，而非黑色的，除非你要參加一個葬禮
6. Opt for a charcoal or gray suit over black, unless you're attending a funeral.
深灰色(西裝)更加靈活，可搭配更多顏色
Dark gray is more versatile and goes with more colors.
7. 你的皮帶不要太粗，最好和鞋子同色
7. Your belt should be fairly thin and the same color as your shoes.
Union Made 製造各式各樣優質皮質及金屬扣的腰帶
Union Made makes really great belts in a variety of leather and metal finishes.
8. 關於選擇什麼鞋子的顏色來搭配西裝，可以參考下方的圖:
8. You should match your shoes to the color of your suit using this guide:
9. 雙開叉的西裝顯得比較現代與時尚
9. Double vents in the back are more modern and fashionable.
10. 想看起來更休閒、時尚的的話，可以選單扣、劍領*西裝。
10. For a more casual, trendy look, opt for a single-button peak-lapel* jacket.
*翻領的種類 Types of Jacket lapels:
11. 如果想要更加正式商務的打扮，則穿雙扣、缺角領*的外套
11. If you're going for more formal business attire, opt for a double-button*, notched lapel jacket.
*翻領的種類 Types of Jacket lapels:
http://www.stcroixcleaners.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/lapel_styles.jpg
12. 倫敦薩佛街*的折法可防止你的西裝褲從衣架上滑落
12. The Savile Row* Fold keeps your dress pants from falling off the hanger.
教學影片請看 Watch the instructional video here.
*Savile Row (薩佛街): 薩佛街（Savile Row）昰一個在倫敦中央梅費爾的購物街區，因為傳統的客製男士服裝行業（bespoke tailoring）而聞名。客製（bespoke）這個英文單字的起源即來自薩佛街。這條短街被稱為「西裝裁縫業的黃金道」，來這裡光顧過的客人包括溫斯頓·邱吉爾、納爾遜勳爵以及拿破崙三世。薩佛街與攝政街平行，在北邊的康督特街和南邊的維果街之間。與其相通的道路包括伯靈頓路，克力佛街和伯靈頓花園。
13. 你的手伸入胸部和上扣好的外套之間應該有點緊，但是還是可以移動，這樣比較舒適，也有活動的空間。
13. You should be able to slip your hand between your chest and your buttoned jacket such that it feels snug, but with room to move.
14. 在坐下前要解開西裝的鈕扣，否則你有可能損壞你的西裝。
14. Always unbutton your suit before sitting down, or you risk ruining it.
15. 雙扣西裝最上面一顆扣子(或者是三扣西裝的中間的鈕扣)，應該在肚臍或肚臍之上。
15. The top button of a two-button (or the middle button of a three-button) should fall at or above the navel.
16. 領帶打溫莎結絕對是個好選擇，但根據你頭的大小選擇打半結或雙結。
16. Always go with the classic windsor knot for your tie, but use the size of your head to determine whether you should go half or full windsor.
大頭 = 雙結. 小頭 = 半結. 如果你不確定你的頭的大小，你可以問你男性的朋友。他們因該會你一個客觀的看法。
BIG HEAD = FULL KNOT. SMALL HEAD = HALF KNOT. If you're not sure how your head size compares, ask one of your male friends. They should be able to give you an objective opinion.
17. 如果你穿背心，盡量別扣上最底部的鈕扣。
17. If you're wearing a vest, always keep the bottom button unbuttoned.
但是很多男士並沒有遵守此規定，卻同時可以美麗地展現三件式西裝。
But plenty of men break this rule and are still able to pull off the three-piece beautifully.
18. 除了好看的外表，其實使用背心是有實用的原因。
18. There are practical reasons for vests beyond just how they look.
背心最好跟單排西裝做搭配 (這樣才看得到阿). 如果你要在寒冷的氣候中穿西裝，背心可以禦寒，亦同時可增加一些正式的感覺。
A vest is best worn with single-breasted suits (so it's actually visible). if you're going to be wearing your suit in a cold climate, a vest can add a lot of warmth. It also adds a formal touch to your suit.
19. 袖口應該露出約半英吋。
19. Sleeve cuffs should be exposed about half an inch.
嘗試著讓袖口露出的寬度能匹配襯衫領子在脖子後面露出的寬度，這樣看起來會比較和諧對稱。
For a harmonious look, try to match the visible cuff length to the amount of collar that is visible at the back of the neck.
20. 當你把西裝帶回家，你需要一個接縫拆線器或一把鋒利的小剪刀。
20. When you get your suit home, you'll need a seam ripper or a small, sharp pair of scissors.
拆西裝夾克口袋的縫線，移走外套開叉上的粗縫，並移走左袖口上面的小繡花標籤。請小心翼翼，避免扯壞衣料或衣上的縫線。
Unstitch the jacket's pockets, remove the tack stitches from the jacket's vents, and remove the little embroidered label from the jacket's left sleeve. Do this very carefully to ensure you don't actually rip the fabric or neighboring threads.
21. 確認你的襪子夠長，當你坐下時才不會露出腿。
21. Make sure that your socks are long enough that there's no exposed leg when sitting down.
沒有人需要看到你的腳毛。
No one needs to see your hairy gams.
22. 領帶的顏色通常要比襯衫顏色還深
22. Your tie should always be darker than your dress shirt.
23. 西裝外套的長度應該要剛好可以可蓋過褲子的拉鏈和屁股。
23. The suit jacket should be just long enough to cover your pants zipper and butt.
24. 領帶的長度應該剛好到褲腰帶處，或略短些。
24. Your tie should JUST reach the waistband of your trousers, or be slightly shorter.
25. 給時尚、潮的裝扮，褲子的下擺剛好接觸到鞋的上邊
25. For a more fashion-forward look, the pant hem should hit right at the top of your shoe.
若要較傳統的打扮，褲子因該蓋住鞋子的上圍和部分的鞋帶
For a more conservative look, the pants should cover the top of the shoe and parts of the laces.
26. 如果你出汗較多，穿一件汗衫吧。
26. If you sweat a lot, wear an undershirt.
汗衫最好是低領的，才不會漏出來。如果露出你的汗衫，西裝在多帥都是沒有用的！
Preferably one with a deep neck so it doesn't peek through. Nothing will cheapen the appearance of a suit more than a glimpse of undershirt.
27. 最後，來個領帶窩！
27. Finally, go for the dimple.
領帶窩是一個在領帶結下面的小小空細，它可給予一點點不修邊幅的感覺，又同時對最後的完整造形增加一點光彩。看看這個實用的指導教你如何做出領帶窩
The dimple is the little hollow beneath the knot of your tie, and it gives a slightly disheveled yet polished appearance to your finished look. Check out this handy guide on nailing the tie dimple.
原文出處: http://www.buzzfeed.com/peggy/unspoken-suit-rules-every-man-should-know#.loDa9dnpE
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